How To Measure Hair Color And Developer: A Quick Guide (2024)

Published April 26, 2024

When it comes to achieving that perfect hair color, precision is critical. Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a DIY enthusiast, understanding how to measure hair color and developer correctly can make a world of difference in the outcome of your coloring process.

Importance of Accurate Measurements

Measuring your hair color and developer accurately is crucial for several reasons. Using too much or too little product can lead to uneven color application, inconsistent results, and even damage to your hair. By following the proper measurement techniques, you can ensure a flawless coloring experience every time.

Terminologies in Measuring Hair Color and Developer

1. Developer

Also known as peroxide or an oxidizing agent, the developer is a crucial component in hair coloring that activates the dye’s color molecules. Developers come in various volumes (10, 20, 30, 40), denoting their strength and ability to lift or deposit color.

2. Mixing Ratio

The mixing ratio refers to the proportion of hair color to the developer used in a coloring mixture. Common ratios include 1:1, 1:1.5, and 1:2, depending on the desired color outcome and the level of lift required.

3. Tonal Base

The tonal base represents the natural underlying pigment of the hair before coloring. Understanding the tonal base is essential for selecting the right shade and developer strength to achieve the desired result.

4. Oxidation Level

The oxidation level of a developer indicates its strength and ability to lift or deposit color. Lower volume developers are used for deposit-only coloring or toning, while higher volumes are employed for lightening or drastic color changes.

5. Processing Time

Processing time refers to the duration the color mixture is left on the hair to develop. It varies based on the hair type, desired result, and developer strength, and following the recommended processing time is crucial for optimal color penetration and longevity.

6. Porosity

Porosity measures the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and color. High-porosity hair absorbs color quickly but may also fade faster, while low-porosity hair requires longer processing times for color uptake.

7. Tint Brushes and Bowls

Tint brushes and bowls are tools used to mix and apply hair color. Tint brushes enable precise application, while plastic or glass bowls are preferred for mixing color to prevent unwanted reactions with metal.

Techniques for Measuring Hair Color and Developer

1. Use Package Measurement Marks

Many hair color tubes come with measurement marks that make it easy to dispense the correct amounts of color and developer. Familiarize yourself with these marks to get the precise proportions needed for your desired shade.

2. Use a Scale

A kitchen scale can be a valuable tool for measuring hair color and developer, especially when dealing with products that lack measurement markings. By weighing the ingredients, you can achieve consistency in your color mixtures.

3. Measuring Cups

For those without a scale, plastic measuring cups can measure the required amounts of hair color and developer. Ensure you scrape out every bit from the cups to avoid inaccuracies in your mixture.

Factors to Consider

Client’s Hair Type

Factors like hair length, texture, previous coloring history, and percentage of gray hair can impact the product needed.

Tools and Utensils

Use plastic or silicone bowls, utensils, and whisks to prevent dye oxidation and ensure a smooth blend.

Developer Strength

Different developers have varying strengths (levels 10 to 40). Choose the appropriate strength based on the desired color change and the client’s hair condition.

Understanding Developer Volumes

10 Volume Developer

Purpose

A 10-volume developer is a gentle formulation for toning, darkening, or depositing color.

Effects

It doesn’t lift the natural hair color much but is ideal for blending gray hair or enhancing the existing shade.

Suitability

Suitable for toning blonde shades, darkening hair slightly, and refreshing faded color.

20 Volume Developer

Purpose

A 20-volume developer is commonly used for moderate lifting and gray coverage.

Effects

It can lift the hair by one to two shades and is suitable for most permanent hair coloring processes.

Suitability

It is ideal for covering gray hair, achieving a noticeable color change, or lightening darker hair shades.

30 Volume Developer

Purpose

A 30-volume developer provides substantial lift and is used for more significant color changes.

Effects

It can lift the hair by two to three shades and is effective for lightening darker hair colors.

Suitability

Best suited for lightening medium to dark hair colors or achieving vibrant fashion shades.

40 Volume Developer

Purpose

A 40-volume developer offers maximum lift and is used for intense color changes.

Effects

It can lift the hair by three to four shades and is recommended for high-lift blonde shades.

Suitability

Suitable for lightening dark hair significantly or achieving very light blonde shades.

Mixing Ratios

  • 1:1 Ratio: Suitable for coloring hair a single shade close to the natural color or covering gray hair.
  • 1:1.5 Ratio: Ideal for toning or lightening hair by one or two levels.
  • 1:2 Ratio: Used for dramatic color changes, going three or four shades lighter.

Final Thoughts

Mastering the art of measuring and developing hair color is a fundamental skill for achieving professional results in hair coloring. By following the right techniques, considering key factors, and leveraging technology, you can confidently elevate your color management game and deliver stunning hair transformations.

How To Measure Hair Color And Developer: A Quick Guide (2024)
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